Friday, August 8, 2008

A Holiday to Remember - IV

A debate

Before R agreed to my proposal we had a small debate. Her point was that - as per our family holiday plan we were going to Haridwar with Budi, then why sacrifice staying at Dehradoon for a day and why not visit Kempty falls too? But within my heart, I was not prepared to bypass Ganga without a darshan in anticipation of a future plan. It could be childhood memories, when I had gone to the Parmat ghat with didima once and quite a few times with thakuma, who was a regular early morning bather. I had taken dip standing on the broad stairs along with hundreds of bathers. I don’t know when Ganga had disappeared from Kanpur and had drifted towards Unnao.

I remember, after my marriage when I had returned to my father’s house for the first time, and I had taken my new husband to the Parmat Ghat to have a glimpse of the Ganga. What a disappointment it was, my heart bled with anguish, when my hopes had come crashing…there was no trace of Ganga anymore. The temples, where we would enter after bathing to get a teeka from the priest, wore a deserted look. The bed of Ganga was lying bare, only with yellow sand. I stood there with a vacant look.

It fascinates me when I find Ganga having great likeness, with three stages of human life. Childhood stage - when it descends from the mountain, flowing over the gradients, sprinting, rippling, bubbling with energy, running swiftly, just like the truant child who either runs or falls but seldom walks, then the Middle course when it flows over the planes of Uttar Pradesh serenely, majestically, acquiring the personality of a settled middle age. And the Last Stage - when numb with carrying heavy loads of sand and mud, it becomes sluggish, breaking into hundreds of channels, before entering into the sea, creating the biggest bay of the world - our Bay of Bengal. Don’t we too become sluggish when we almost reach our house after a long walk? Feet not too steady - falling this way and that way - body swaying left and right. Well! I imagine so, you may not.

I knew if I argued with R on the strength of my secret desire, my argument will not stand, so I said – “let’s go Haridwar to make a survey of the hotels, where we could stay with Budi, as we both were quite sure that no posh hotel would accept Budi as guest.”

R saw some logic in my point and sat down to do what she does best, calling hotels, with the help of her guide book She was impressed with one hotel Siddharth, because the person on line spoke in smart English, which is some kind of a certificate in our country of things above the average. A double room booked, she informed that we were reaching Haridwar next day around 1 P.M.

Chottomama

One more job remained to be done - to inform chottomama.. A man of few words, he had left Kanpur for his medical studies in Calcutta when I was just a kid and from there to England. He had returned after many years armed with double F.R.C.S. and rich experience of working in British hospitals…A pucca sahib by temperament, I felt uneasy in his presence, though my chemistry with mamima was excellent. If I had my way I would have liked to give her a big surprise by knocking at her door unannounced.

Chottomama picked up the phone - "arre Umu!!"

Ashbi.. chole aae.. besh moja hobe..

I was relieved but R was not. They were complete strangers to her. She kept asking me questions about them to prepare herself mentally for the meeting.

Next morning we checked out of the Hotel Deep early. Porters were waiting outside to pick up luggage from the outgoing tourists. We hired a porter and came to ‘Clarks’ for an English breakfast of fried eggs, cheese sandwiches and tea. It took us about an hour. I could see our porter waiting outside fixing his gaze on us, shifting his legs from time to time, and surprise! He never grumbled about waiting for so long. His name was Jublee. We came to the taxi stand. Rates were fixed so there was no question of haggling. We hired a taxi upto Dehradoon only and planned to cover the distance from Dehradoon to Haridwar by bus. R wanted to give some extra money to Jublee but after depositing our luggage he had vanished like voo doo. We kept looking for him from the running taxi but he was untraceable. After coming down some distance our driver said he had put his mobile on charge and forgotten to collect that. We could see he was little worried.

“Would it be lost?” I asked.

No chance of losing he said and kept om driving. But I was thinking how can a person engaged in a business manage without his mobile, moreover, how will he focus on driving, his mind straying elsewhere?

Turn back

Why

For your mobile


I could see a big smile on his face and he happily turned the taxi to recover his cell phone. That was the beginning of a very pleasant relationship between us. He was a good driver and a good guide too. He pointed at a beautiful palatial building on the top of a hill. It was ‘komal palace’ belonging to the ex King of Nepal, King Gyanendra. And some anecdotes… once he was taking a newly married couple to Dehradoon, who had to catch a flight. In the midway he came upon a roadblock. Huge boulders had slid down the hills, obstructing traffic movement. His passengers became nervous for they were sure to miss the flight. But he did not give up, ran to the nearby village, arranged hammers, pickaxes and everybody got down to work .The road was cleared and his passengers reached the air port on time to catch their flight.. He made our journey really enjoyable by his easy and relaxed driving. What a contrast it was from our previous experience two days ago. He insisted on driving us down to Haridwar. So we abandoned our plan of traveling by bus. And reached safely.

2 comments:

aroop said...

in what ever little Bengali i can muster enough courage to speak.."Bhishon Bhalo laglo aapnar notun post pore, aami jantam na aapnar Kanpur Connection..aamder bodhay kokhuno dekha hoy ne, kintu aamar Badi aapnar Kanpur badir khub kachey"

I totally second you, how things have changed in Kanpur and how Ganga has disappeared..how ever i am still not able to place it on the timeline the last time you were in Kanpur..cause if my memory serves me right..i do remember very well that ganga used to flow through "Moni Ghat" in Azadnagar till 1981..!!
i have practically grown up in Kanpur, learned to ride bicycle infront 3A/112, Played cricket infront 0f 3A/114..the memory of those bookstalls in DurgaPuja Pendals (where i used to get my yearly stash) of Mad comics and those dussera fares just a stone throw distance away from my home..still lingers on..but things just arent the same any more..i hate to see my childhood playground (my whole Para) been turned into a concrete jungle,for worse..but, i guess- thats a fact i will have to live with.
Thanks for bring back those old memories..i know what stories i have to tell my room mate this weekend evening..!!

Anonymous said...

Dear Aroop and MoD
You know, I have very faint memories of once going to Unnao to see Ganga. I remember standing on the river banks staring at the distant horizon - where Ganga had moved herself for the summer. I also remember our eyes burning because of the clouds of black smoke thrown out by a mill. I don't have any recollection of the year though. During our summer vacations Dadu used to take us to Mouni Ghat very often. There is another 'frame' that comes to my mind - we sitting on some high perch with Dadu - a sea of green vegetation before us - and a distant blue streak on the horizon - we asking if we could walk towards the river - and Dadu saying it was too far, bur the river came closer during the monsoons. We never stayed in Kanpur during the Monsoons, so never got to see Ganga. Long time back I once heard that the U.P. Government had started a project of bringing back Ganga to Kanpur - did it succeed?

These memories suddenly came back to me today after reading your post and your comment...memories are strange. You never know they exist till they surface...